We passionately build each and every single pair of boots by hand, from the initial paper patterns to the homemade bark oil we apply to finish. Each step is carefully managed by our team, here, in the heart of Newcastle-upon-Tyne. See our handmade boots process below or get a pair in the flesh from our shop
The style is designed from the paper forms obtained from the last.
A standard is then made where the design is drawn out.
The pieces can then be cut from the standard by folding the paper in various ways and adding the allowance needed for stitching the leather pieces together to form the upper.
The leather skin is then selected and examined
Paper patterns are then placed strategically on the leather against the grain, or stretch of the leather. Using one hand to press down, the other holding a curved, clicking blade, the leather can then be marked and cut out.
The leather pieces are then able to be aligned in the correct manner following the guides the clicker has made, and then stitched together with the leather lining. Other than the zig-zag stitch under the backstrap, the rest of the upper is stitched together using post machines.
We collect water from the Tyne on a weekly basis.
This is used to soak the leather insole, heel stiffeners, toepuffs, and the leather upper.
The insole, stiffeners, and toepuffs are then ‘rung’ out, removing excess water, and closing the pores in the leather.
Uppers are left to mellow.
Heel stiffener and toepuff are handskived so there is no rubbing at the heel, and blended at the toe giving a firm but comfortable hold that will mould to your foot over time.
The leather insole is nailed to the bottom of the last, and left to dry taking the shape of the plantar surface of the last.
The mellowed upper has the heel stiffener added and is then pulled over the last and secured.
Toepuff added once the lining has been lasted in.
If veldtschoen, then the outer leather part is left until the toepuff and heel stiff have dried.
This is done once the leather middles, outsole, and heel have been added and stitched on.
These tools we believe to be over 100 years old. wax is applied to the leather edges, then the tools are heated up and then in a forward and back motion rubbed on the leather to seal the pores and gives a lovely smooth glossy finish to the footwear.
This is made from birch trees in and around Newcastle and Northumberland. Responsibly sourced.
Our love and passion for handmade leather boots have been passed by generations of craftsmen
